Diamond Guide

Every diamond is unique. Whether buying or selling a diamond it is important to understand how diamonds are evaluated. Diamond shape and the universal 4 C's (cut, carat weight, color and clarity) of assessing a diamond's quality are explained below.

Diamond Shape

A diamond's shape refers to the general outline or silhouette of the diamond. Note that diamond shape is not the same as a diamond's cut. Below are some examples of diamond shapes.

Diamond Cut

Diamond cut should not be confused with diamond shape. A diamond with the same shape can have a different cut. Regardless of its shape, a well-cut diamond determines its fire and brilliance. This is what makes a diamond sparkle. If a diamond is cut to ideal or perfect proportions, light will reflect and refract making it sparkle. If a diamond is poorly cut, or cut too shallow or too deep, light will escape out of the bottom or sides of the diamond making it appear more dull.

Here are some examples of different cuts of diamonds.

Below is a diagram of a diamond's cut from GIA.

Below is a comparison of shallow, ideal and deep cut proportions of a diamond and how light is refracted. Notice how only an ideal cut diamond refracts light out of the top making it appear bright and sparkly. Also, note how much smaller the table (top) of a deep cut diamond appears compared to an ideal cut diamond. If you had two one-carat diamonds side by side, the deep cut diamond would not only look darker and duller, but also considerably smaller.

Diamond Carat Weight

Carat weight is the standard measurement of a diamond's size, but technically carat weight is a measurement of weight, not size. This means although two diamonds that are the exact same weight are generally the same size, the diameter (measured in millimeters) could differ. Consider the example used above with an ideal cut diamond compared to a deep cut diamond.

One carat is equal to 100 points meaning a 0.75-carat diamond is the same as a 75-point or three-quarter carat diamond.

Also, note that the combined carat weight of a grouping of several smaller diamonds is not as valuable as a single diamond of the same carat weight. For example, 20 diamonds that are .05 carats each and total 1 carat is less valuable then one diamond that is 1 carat.

Diamond Color

White diamonds are graded on a color scale of D through Z. D having the least color; Z having the most color. A color grade closest to D is most valuable. 

Diamonds that naturally have color, which include yellows, pinks and blues, are called fancy diamonds. Certain fancy colored diamonds are much sought after because of their extreme rarity. Their quality is graded by the intensity of the hue, and unlike white diamonds, the more color the rarer the stone.

Note that a white diamond that appears yellow is not considered a fancy diamond or yellow diamond, but instead it is considered a dark white diamond and is much less desirable and less valuable.

Brown diamonds are the most common kinds of diamonds found in nature. Although some retailers market them as chocolate diamonds with a hefty price tag, these are not very valuable and will not fetch much when reselling.

Diamond Clarity

Diamond clarity refers to the number of imperfections, or inclusions that exist within a diamond. Diamonds with the least amount and smallest inclusions possess the highest clarity and are the most valuable. Diamonds with a greater number and size of inclusions posses a lower clarity grade and are less valuable. 

Virtually all diamonds contain imperfections or birthmarks, most of them too small to see with the naked eye. These inclusions, when viewed under magnification may look like dark sports, feathers, clouds or crystals.

Diamonds are graded on a scale of FL (Flawless) - I3 (Included). Diamonds that have no inclusions under 10x magnification will be graded as Fl (Flawless) and be higher in value while diamonds that have obvious inclusions under 10x magnification that may affect transparency and brilliance will be graded I1 - I3 (Included) and be much lower in value.

FL - Flawless: No inclusions or blemishes are visible to a skilled grader using 10x magnification

IF - Internally Flawless: No inclusions and only blemishes are visible to a skilled grader using 10x magnification

VVS1 and VVS2 - Very, Very Slightly Included: Inclusions are difficult for a skilled grader to see under 10x magnification